Do you have old wool sweaters laying around that you never wear but can’t part with them because you love the pattern on them? Are you looking for your next upcycled sweater project to repurpose a sweater you found at a thrift store and had to buy? This pattern is just for you! Our Christmas stocking pattern is made using upcycled sweaters and is the perfect sewing project for your next handmade gifts. They are sure to be a hit hung on your mantel or railing this Christmas. They are also a hot seller if you are a maker! This pattern provides everything you need to know, from start to finish, to make these one-of-a-kind Christmas stockings.
Final Size: 7” across at the cuff, 17” total length.
Below is our full step by step photo tutorial to make these Christmas stockings. The templates shown in the photos used to make the stockings are available here.
* Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link.
Where to find your sweaters
There are a variety of places to find sweaters to use for your stockings. The easiest place is your local thrift store. You will find wonderful fair isle, striped and other one-of-a-kind designs. Don’t forget to look in your own closet for sweaters you have been planning to donate. Sweaters that were passed down from loved ones also make a special keepsake. Look for sweaters that are larger in size so they have plenty of fabric for the stocking.
You will need 4 sections for the stocking:
1 – main stocking
2 – heel and toe
3 – cuff
4 – liner
The main sweater used in this tutorial is 100% wool. This was the perfect thickness for the project. For the heel and toe, lightweight sweaters work best. The ones in this tutorial are made from a 100% cashmere sweater. Merino wool works great too. You want a thin sweater for this because you will be sewing 4 layers together (2 stocking pieces + 2 heels or toes). If the accent pieces are too thick it will be hard getting all 4 layers through your sewing machine.
The cuff for the top of the stocking is from the bottom ribbed edge of a sweater. For the stocking shown below, the cuff was from the same cashmere sweater as the heel and toe. Any type of fabric will work for this. Ribbed edges that are at least 4” high are best. Shorter ribbed edges are also ok but the top part of the cuff on your stocking will be non-ribbed. The neck opening from turtlenecks make great cuffs too!
Adding a liner gives your stocking a nice finished shape and hides your seams. If you want the whole stocking to be made from upcycled sweaters, any light/medium weight sweater will work for the liner. Fleece fabric is a great option as well. Most anything you have on hand will work for the liner.
You may choose to wash & dry your wool sweaters before cutting them. This will thicken them up and felt them. It can also shrink the sweater so proceed with caution. This is optional and should only be done if you think the sweaters will still be big enough for the pattern once you account for any potential shrinkage. If your sweater is already quite thick and heavy, I would hold off on shrinking it as it may become too thick to sew with.
Notes & Tips
~ Always back stitch when starting and finishing each seam.
~ When trimming your templates, cut on the outside of the black outline.
~ I like to use a Sharpie marker to trace the template on the fabric. Alternatively, you can pin the template to the fabric and cut around.
~ If your fabric is quite thick and is slow going through your sewing machine, don’t pull the fabric at the back where it has already been sewn. This will stretch out the shape of the stocking. You can gently guide/push the fabric at the front as it goes through the machine.
~ If you have an extremely special sweater you plan to use, I suggest first practicing on sweaters from a thrift store to ensure you don’t make any mistakes using the sentimental piece that cannot be replaced.
Supplies
~ 2-3 sweaters for the stocking, heel, toe and cuff
~ sweater, fleece or other fabric for liner
~ yarn to stitch along edge of the heel and toe and for the loop at top (medium #4 worsted weight yarn was used in this tutorial)
~ darning needle
~ scissors
~ measuring tape
~ sewing machine
~ permanent marker (optional)
~ pins
~ thread + needle to secure stocking to liner & cuff
~ printed pattern templates (AVAILABLE HERE)
Making The Stocking
Print the templates. When printing the templates, make sure you select “print as image”, “print 100%” or “print actual size”. Printer settings vary but select which fits these terms best. Do not click “fit to page” or “fit to borders”. This will ensure your templates come out the right size. Once the template is printed, check the square in the corner to ensure it measures 1” by 1”.
Cut your templates, leaving the black outline on. Line up the 3 stocking pieces and tape them together.
You will need two stocking pieces from your main sweater (front and back). Either place the template on the sweater and cut the two layers together, giving you a front piece and back piece, or cut one piece, flip the template and cut a second piece to get the front and back pieces. I use a Sharpie marker to trace the shape. You can also pin the template to the fabric and cut around. For dark colored sweaters I use a white gel pen.
Repeat with the liner fabric.
Repeat for the heel and toe pieces in the same way you did for the stocking pieces. Cut two of each – one front and one back. Fold your cuff piece in half and use the cuff template to trace + cut this piece of fabric. Your cuff will be double the length of the template when it isn’t folded in half.
Pin the heels and toes (right side facing out) to the right side of each stocking piece.
Before sewing them on, lay the two stocking pieces together (right sides facing each other) and make sure the heel and toe are placed in the same spot on both stocking pieces. This will make it easier to line them up later when sewing the two stocking pieces together.
Sew the toes and heels onto the stocking using a 1/8” inseam. Trim any excess fabric to make it look neat and even, but do not cut too close to the seam you just sewed.
Line up the stocking pieces with the right sides facing one another; wrong sides on the outside. Pin fabric pieces together, making sure to line up the heel and toe pieces.
Sew using a 1/4” inseam. Trim any excess fabric making sure not to get too close to the seam. Turn right side out.
Repeat for the liner with the right sides facing each other, using a 1/2” inseam. The reason for the wider inseam is to make the liner slightly smaller than the stocking. You want it to lay flat inside and not have extra bulk. Trim any excess fabric making sure not to get too close to the seam. Leave the liner the way it is – do not turn right side out.
Add the accent stitches to the heel and toe: Cut a piece of yarn and thread it on your darning needle. Starting on the inside, begin working the accent stitches along the heel and toe. Do not pull them too tight when weaving in and out.
Next you will make the cuff. Fold the cut fabric in half with the right sides facing one another. Pin the edge. Sew along the side using a 1/4” inseam. Turn right side out.
Sew the cuff onto the liner. Your cuff should be turned right side out (not inside out). Insert the cuff into the liner with the finished edge of the cuff furthest into the liner and the raw edges of the cuff and liner together. Line up the sewn seam of the cuff with the sewn seam of the liner along the backside of the stocking. Distribute the cuff evenly in the liner and pin. If the cuff seems too bulky to spread out evenly inside the liner, you can simply sew a new seam to make the cuff slightly smaller. You want the cuff to fit inside without much extra fabric, but not be too small that it cinches the top of the stocking once it is folded over.
Sew the two pieces together, working along the inside of the cuff.
Trim any excess fabric, making sure not to get too close to the seam. Pull the cuff out of the liner.
Trim any excess fabric, making sure not to get too close to the seam. Pull the cuff out of the liner.
You are now finished sewing. Now for the best part – insert the liner into the stocking and fold the cuff over the top of the stocking.
To add a loop to your stocking for hanging it, cut 4 pieces of yarn, each 10” long. Thread all the pieces onto the darning needle and tie a knot on the other end of the yarn.
Thread the needle through the top of the liner from the outside to inside.
Twist the darning needle and yarn enough that it rolls together when you fold the yarn in half.
Insert the needle back into the liner and tie a knot in this end of the yarn. Make the loop extra secure by tying the two sections of yarn together.
Using a needle and thread, attach the stocking to the liner along the top edge. This will be hidden by the cuff once you fold it back over. Doing this will prevent the stocking from sliding out of the liner once it is hung up.
Fold the cuff back over the stocking. Tack the bottom of the cuff to the stocking at the front and back seams to keep it in place.
Iron the stocking for a crisp and finished look. Hang your stocking and soak up the Christmas season!
The templates for the stockings can be found here.
We love seeing your finished work! Tag us on social media and use the hashtag #foxandpinestocking on Instagram when sharing your finished work. We will be featuring some of our favorite stockings made by other makers on our blog and would love to see your work.
Have you seen our sweater mittens pattern using upcycled sweaters? If you enjoyed making these stockings, I know you will love making our mittens too! Checking them out here out here.
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Pattern and photos are the property of Fox & Pine Stitches. Copying, altering or sharing the pattern and claiming it as your own is strictly prohibited. You have permission to sell items made with this pattern but credit must be given to the designer in any online listings/websites:
Pattern Credit: www.foxandpinestitches.com
You may not use our photos for your own listings.
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